中国商报(记者 张涛)近年来，消费环境发生巨变，曾经风靡一时的国际快时尚品牌正在加速退出线下渠道，在新冠肺炎疫情中进一步崛起的运动品牌则顺势抢滩，成为各大商场的新锐主力。

国际快时尚失宠

近日，在龙湖北京大兴天街一层，中国商报记者看到，国产运动品牌安踏取代了国际快时尚品牌GAP盛装开业。安踏专卖店原来位于龙湖北京大兴天街二楼，位置并不显眼。GAP则自商场开业就入驻了位于商场一层较为抢眼的位置，曾是该商场最重要的快时尚店铺之一。如今，形势逆转，GAP黯然退场，安踏后来居上并取而代之，新店不仅经营面积更大，也更加潮酷。

而这仅仅是近年来国际快时尚品牌业绩不断下滑，纷纷收缩战线甚至撤出中国市场的一个缩影。近日，ZARA的姐妹品牌Bershka、Pull&Bear和Stradivarius均在其天猫旗舰店发布闭店公告：自2022年7月31日起，品牌线上商店将停止销售商品。这意味着这三个品牌将正式退出中国市场。今年3月31日，H&M旗下的MONKI天猫官方旗舰店闭店，与此同时，该品牌的在中国的最后一家线下门店也永久关闭。6月24日，H&M关闭了营业15年的位于上海淮海中路的内地首店。GAP最近几年也在不断关闭在华门店，仅在北京一地，GAP就关闭了王府井APM的首店、西单大悦城旗舰店、颐堤港店等多家重要门店。2021年，GAP旗下主力品牌OldNavy直接宣布退出中国市场

相对而言，日本快时尚巨头优衣库情况要好很多，但也未能避免关店收缩。根据优衣库母公司2022财年中报披露，优衣库在中国市场的销售收益下降，在大中华区暂时关闭133家门店。

“时代变了，那些老品牌已经跟不上现在的潮流了。”和奕咨询创始人丁昀对中国商报记者说，早期进入中国的国际快时尚品牌吸引匹配的是80后消费者，其中有些品牌产品质量不够好，缺乏反应快速的设计能力和面料研发能力，也就是一时热闹。现在，随着中国市场品牌越来越多，这些老品牌无论在产品设计还是品质都跟不上时代，不能满足90后和00后的需求，被市场淘汰是必然的结果。

丁昀认为，现在快时尚迭代速度大大加快，未来，只有那些具备高效的低成本设计能力和产品研发能力的品牌才能在市场中立于不败之地。

运动品牌顺势而上

疫情的持续，让消费者对健康更加关注和重视，而这也给运动休闲品牌带来利好，助推相关品牌加速扩张。目前，在线下销售渠道，快时尚后退、运动休闲品牌上升的趋势明显。

以北京知名的购物中心Apm为例，快时尚品牌ZARA、GAP等都曾是其中的主力店，占据了临街最好的位置，但最近两三年，在Apm的升级调整中，ZARA、GAP都成为被调整的对象，相继撤出。安踏旗下的品牌Fila首家全球概念店和Kolon中国首家旗舰店以及国际知名的美妆品牌相继取而代之，在Apm位置最好的临街门面开门营业。

龙湖北京大兴天街亦是如此，最近一年来，该门店通过品牌调整，大大增加了运动品牌的比重，包括迪卡侬、耐克、安踏、李宁、阿迪达斯、UNDERARMOUR、 CHAMPION等在内的国内外知名品牌共同形成了可满足全客层需求的运动休闲商品矩阵。

“龙湖北京大兴天街计划打造零售品牌的超级大店集群，引入区域内的首店、内容店、旗舰店，并通过持续的品牌焕新，提升项目在北京南城的影响力、吸附力。”龙湖集团相关负责人告诉中国商报记者，基于此，龙湖北京大兴天街针对当前市场上备受青睐的运动潮流品牌进行了升级焕新，李宁店升级为全品类标杆店，安踏店升级为北京区域购物中心内面积最大的全品类综合店，门店除了铺位面积的扩大，也引入了更丰富的货品资源和推广资源。

很多知名的商业街在升级改造中也通过引入运动品牌旗舰店或首店来吸引客流。去年，中国最大的耐克全球旗舰店在北京王府井步行街北延长线最好的位置开业，成为这条大街上的地标性门店。

“这样的替换五年前就开始了。”丁昀告诉中国商报记者，商场更愿意把一层或临街的好位置给00后更喜欢的“国潮”，如李宁、安踏等。丁昀表示，这些运动的国货潮流品牌在最近三年不断提升设计和研发的商品力，上新频次增加，同时也更符合商业导流的目的。此外，运动品牌的高毛利也能承受一层相对较为昂贵的租金。反观GAP这类快时尚，不但和商场的品质升级并不匹配，而且快时尚大铺面积也不匹配商业的商品多元化和一层收益优化。

“这两年因为疫情和消费升级，运动商品的占比大幅度提升。”北京京商流通战略研究院院长赖阳告诉中国商报记者，这首先得益于消费者运动锻炼的意愿加强了。其次，运动正在成为一种很时尚、很酷的潮流表达方式和观念。与此同时，现在运动服饰的设计感和时尚度也在不断提升，深受消费群体的喜爱。

运动潮流的不断兴起推动运动服饰销售高速增长。例如，主打国潮概念的国内运动品牌安踏和李宁就是其中的受益者。2018年、2019年、2021年，安踏的年营收增幅均在40%左右，利润增幅超过30%；李宁2019年的营收增幅为32%，2021年的营收增幅甚至高达56%。

在这种高速增长的态势下，优质的运动品牌加速布局线下，需要开更多的体验店来展现品牌形象，增强消费体验，拉动销售进一步增长。而基于吸引流量和促进销售的需求，线下商场也更愿意把优质资源留给运动品牌。

China Business Daily (Reporter Zhang Tao) In recent years, the consumption environment has undergone tremendous changes. The once-popular international fast fashion brands are accelerating their withdrawal from offline channels, while the sports brands that have further risen amid the new crown pneumonia epidemic are taking advantage of the trend and becoming a new crop of major shopping malls. main force.

International fast fashion falls out of favor

Recently, on the first floor of Daxingtian Street in Beijing, Longfor, a reporter from China Business Daily saw that the domestic sports brand Anta replaced the international fast fashion brand GAP. The Anta store was originally located on the second floor of Daxingtian Street, Beijing, Longfor, and the location was not conspicuous. GAP has settled in a more eye-catching location on the first floor of the mall since the mall opened, and was once one of the most important fast fashion stores in the mall. Today, the situation has reversed, and GAP has withdrawn from the market. Anta has come from behind and replaced it. The new store not only has a larger operating area, but also is more fashionable.

And this is just a microcosm of the continuous decline in the performance of international fast fashion brands in recent years, shrinking their fronts and even withdrawing from the Chinese market. Recently, ZARA's sister brands Bershka, Pull&Bear and Stradivarius have all issued store closure announcements on their Tmall flagship stores: starting from July 31, 2022, the brand online store will stop selling goods. This means that these three brands will officially withdraw from the Chinese market. On March 31 this year, H&M's MONKI Tmall official flagship store closed. At the same time, the brand's last offline store in China was also permanently closed. On June 24, H&M closed its first mainland store on Huaihai Middle Road in Shanghai, which had been in business for 15 years. GAP has been closing stores in China in recent years. In Beijing alone, GAP has closed many important stores such as the first store of APM in Wangfujing, the flagship store of Joy City in Xidan, and the Indigo store. In 2021, OldNavy, the main brand of GAP, will directly announce its withdrawal from the Chinese market

Relatively speaking, the situation of Japanese fast fashion giant Uniqlo is much better, but it has not been able to avoid store closures and shrinkage. According to Uniqlo's parent company's 2022 fiscal year interim report, Uniqlo's sales revenue in the Chinese market declined, and 133 stores were temporarily closed in Greater China.

"The times have changed, and those old brands can no longer keep up with the current trend." Ding Yun, founder of Heyi Consulting, told a reporter from China Business Daily that international fast fashion brands that entered China in the early days attracted and matched consumers born in the 1980s. The quality of some brand products is not good enough, and they lack quick-response design capabilities and fabric research and development capabilities, which is a moment of excitement. Now, as there are more and more brands in the Chinese market, these old brands cannot keep up with the times in terms of product design and quality, and cannot meet the needs of the post-90s and post-00s. It is an inevitable result that they will be eliminated from the market.

Ding Yun believes that the iteration speed of fast fashion is greatly accelerated. In the future, only those brands with efficient low-cost design capabilities and product development capabilities can be invincible in the market.

Sports brands take advantage

The continuation of the epidemic has made consumers pay more attention and attention to health, which has also brought benefits to sports and leisure brands and boosted the accelerated expansion of related brands. At present, in offline sales channels, fast fashion is retreating and sports and leisure brands are rising.

Take Apm, a well-known shopping center in Beijing as an example, fast fashion brands ZARA, GAP, etc. used to be the main stores, occupying the best location on the street. Become the object of adjustment and withdraw one after another. Anta's brand Fila's first global concept store and Kolon's first flagship store in China, as well as an internationally renowned beauty brand, have successively replaced them, opening their doors at the best street-facing facade of Apm.

The same is true for Longfor Beijing Daxingtian Street. In the past year, the store has greatly increased the proportion of sports brands through brand adjustment, including Decathlon, Nike, Anta, Li Ning, Adidas, UNDERARMOUR, CHAMPION and other well-known brands at home and abroad. A sports and leisure product matrix that can meet the needs of all customers has been formed.

"Longfor Beijing Daxingtian Street plans to build a super-large store cluster of retail brands, introduce the first store, content store and flagship store in the region, and through continuous brand renewal, enhance the project's influence and attraction in Beijing Nancheng." The relevant person in charge of Longfor Group told the China Business Daily reporter that based on this, Longfor Beijing Daxingtian Street has been upgraded and refreshed for the popular sports trend brands in the current market. The Li Ning store has been upgraded to a full-category benchmark store, and the Anta store has been upgraded to Beijing. The largest full-category comprehensive store in the regional shopping center. In addition to the expansion of the store area, the store has also introduced more abundant product resources and promotion resources.

Many well-known commercial streets also attract customers by introducing flagship stores or first stores of sports brands in the upgrading and renovation. Last year, China's largest Nike global flagship store opened at the best location on the north extension of Wangfujing Pedestrian Street in Beijing, becoming a landmark store on the street.

"This kind of replacement started five years ago." Ding Yun told a reporter from China Business Daily that shopping malls are more willing to give the first floor or a good location facing the street to the "national tide" that the post-00s prefer, such as Li Ning and Anta. Ding Yun said that these trendy brands of domestic products have continuously improved the product power of design and research and development in the past three years, and the frequency of new products has increased, which is also more in line with the purpose of commercial diversion. In addition, the high gross profit of sports brands can also afford a relatively expensive rent. On the other hand, fast fashion such as GAP not only does not match the quality upgrade of shopping malls, but also the large shop area of fast fashion does not match the diversification of commercial products and the optimization of one-level revenue.

"Because of the epidemic and consumption upgrades in the past two years, the proportion of sports goods has increased significantly." Lai Yang, president of the Beijing Jingshang Circulation Strategy Research Institute, told the China Business Daily reporter that this was first due to the increased willingness of consumers to exercise. . Secondly, sports are becoming a very fashionable and cool trend expression and concept. At the same time, the sense of design and fashion of sportswear is also constantly improving, which is deeply loved by consumer groups.

The continuous rise of sports trends has promoted the rapid growth of sportswear sales. For example, domestic sports brands Anta and Li Ning, which mainly focus on the concept of national tide, are the beneficiaries. In 2018, 2019 and 2021, Anta's annual revenue growth rate was around 40%, and profit growth exceeded 30%; Li Ning's revenue growth rate in 2019 was 32%, and the revenue growth rate in 2021 was even as high as 56%.

Under this high-speed growth trend, high-quality sports brands are accelerating their offline layout and need to open more experience stores to show their brand image, enhance consumer experience, and drive further sales growth. Based on the needs of attracting traffic and promoting sales, offline shopping malls are also more willing to leave high-quality resources to sports brands.